The Short Answer
Installing Woodwöl mosaic wood wall and ceiling tiles is straightforward when the space, surface, and adhesive are prepared correctly. Woodwöl does not come with adhesive on the back, and it comes in tile form, with multiple wood pieces attached to a backer.
Installing Woodwöl mosaic wood wall and ceiling tiles is pretty easy. The two main differences between Woodwöl and Stikwood are that Woodwöl does not come with adhesive on the back, and that they are in a tile form (multiple pieces attached to a backer).
Remember, our award-winning customer support team is just an email/chat/phone call away. Below is a quick install video and below that a step-by-step guide.
Tools You’ll Need
Tools for Installing Woodwöl
A few basic measuring, cutting, and adhesive tools make the installation cleaner and easier to control from the first row to the final cut.
Miter Saw
Make clean end cuts where tiles meet corners, trim, or the edge of the wall.
Utility Knife
Separate individual mosaic pieces or trim backer material when a full tile is not the right fit.
Pencil
Mark centerlines, cut points, and layout references lightly before each placement.
Step Ladder
Keep upper rows and ceiling work within reach so you can place each tile with control.
Level
Check the baseboard, vertical centerline, and each row as the adhesive begins to set.
Tape Measure
Measure the wall, final row height, and cut locations before marking each tile.
Caulking Gun + Construction Adhesive
Apply adhesive to both the backer and the wood through the tile openings before setting each tile.
Step 1: Get Your Space Ready for Woodwöl
Let Woodwöl Relax in its New Home
Take Woodwöl out of the box and remove plastic wrap. Stack them in their new room and leave them to acclimate for 2-5 days prior to install day.

Dry & Dust Free is the Way to Be
On Installation day, wipe the surface to make sure it is clean and dust-free. Woodwöl needs to be adhered to clean, dry & dust free surface.
Important: Remember to let any fresh paint dry completely—while it may feel dry after 2 days, it needs more time, typically 5-7 days.

Step 2: Set Your First Row
Check Baseboard Level
Take your level and see if your baseboard is level. If it isn’t, you will have to use shims to raise some tiles so your first row is level.

Draw A Vertical Center Line
Find the center of the wall and draw a level vertical line from floor to ceiling.

Apply Adhesive to The Back of Your First Tile
Flip a tile over, and with a caulking gun, draw a line of adhesive connecting all of the dots. The goal is to make sure the adhesive is on both the backer and the wood through the holes. If you miss one it isn’t the end of the world, but try and connect them all.

Set Your First Tile
Set the first tile on the baseboard at the center of the wall. Press the tile firmly and hold for a few seconds until the adhesive sticks the tile to the wall. If you let go and it sags (doesn’t stay where you placed it) move it back and hold for a few more seconds until it holds.
IMPORTANT: Where you place your first tile matters as it sets the pattern. This starting position is good for our offset patterns like brick and bond, but for square patterns or chevrons you may want a different starting position. Planning it out on paper may be helpful.

Place First Row Tiles Working Center Out
Working from the center out, glue and place each tile, holding until it stays in position. When you reach the last two pieces, they will need to be cut.
DIY TIP: You don’t have to start in the center... it may be advantageous to slide the pattern left and right to control where the end cuts land in the pattern. The easiest way to do this is to lay the tiles out on the floor against the baseboard.

Cut the End Tiles of the First Row
Mark each tile where it needs to be cut using a pencil and straight edge, then cut. Don’t throw out the remainder, as you will use this later.
DIY TIP: If a cut causes a piece to fall out, you can just glue the piece in individually like you would a tile.

Place the End Tiles of the First Row
Place the cut end tiles like normal. Check the finished first row for level. If you need to raise or lower a tile you should be able to nudge them down or shim them up. Keeping rows level will make the work easier.
DIY TIP: Depending on the type and brand of construction adhesive used, you may have to wait for each row to dry enough before proceeding to the next row. Checking level often will alert you to any sagging. Some installers like to put a nail every so often just so they can keep working without worrying about sagging.

Step 3: Glue and Place
Start Next Row Using Unused End Tile Piece
Use one of the end cuts from the last tiles of the first row to start the next row. This maximizes material and ensures a good offset pattern.
IMPORTANT: This works well for our offset patterns like brick and bond, but for square patterns or chevrons you may not want the pattern to be offset. Take a moment to decide how you want the pattern to be and place the first tile of each row accordingly. You may chose to use a whole tile for example.

Fill in Row & Repeat
Start the next row on the other side, using a trim piece as a starter, and complete your third row.
DIY TIP: You will notice that there are small gaps between the wood pieces in the tiles. When placing tiles next to each other do not push them tightly together, rather try and maintain the same small gaps between tiles that there are between pieces.

Check Level & Let Adhesive Cure to Avoid Sag
Use your level to make sure the layout is level. Let the adhesive dry long enough that it can support additional rows without sagging. If any tiles need to be moved you should be able to gently slide them around small distances while the adhesive is still tacky.

Keep Going Row by Row
Fill in the remaining rows checking for level as you go and letting the adhesive dry so you avoid sag. The final row will need to be ripped.

Rip Final Row Pieces
Measure the final row height and cut pieces to fit.
DIY TIP: If you need to work with pieces of the mosaic rather than full tiles for the final row, you can use a utility knife to separate the pieces.

Place Final Row Pieces
Place the final row pieces starting at one end and working across. Make sure you maintain the tile pattern.

Enjoy Your New Accent Wall!
We LOVE seeing people's finished projects. Take a few photos and tag us on Instagram @stikwooddesign. We will share it with our followers and inspire others!

Additional Steps: Outlets & Corners
Untrimmed Outlet
For flat tiles, simply place an outlet extender on the outlet and trim the tiles to the shape of the outlet.

Trimmed Outlet
When using dimensional Woodwöl tiles, trimming an outlet is the easiest solution, although this method works great for flat tiles as well. Using a utility knife, cut a tile apart and set aside the tallest blocks. Place an outlet extender on the outlet that is the same dimension as the blocks you will use for trim. Cut and glue blocks around the outlet as shown. After this just install the tiles like normal cutting them around the trimmed outlet.

Corners
For inside and outside corners a simple piece of square stock can be used as long as it is as thick as the thickest piece of wood in the pattern. We make custom trim pieces for Woodwöl products—please contact [email protected].

Important Notes
- If you plan to hang shelves, artwork, or pictures on the completed wall, anchor them to the wall and/or studs—not just to the Woodwöl product.
- For ceiling or upside-down horizontal installations, use the polyurethane adhesive method and add a 1 1/2-inch pin nail in each individual piece of mosaic.
- No grout is needed.
- Do not install near open flames.
- Do not install in areas with heavy water exposure.
- Woodwöl is not intended for exterior applications.
- Follow all local building codes when installing near fireplaces, stoves, or similar conditions.
Explore Woodwöl
Browse Woodwöl mosaic wood wall and ceiling tiles, view the Woodwöl collection page, or order a Woodwöl sample book to compare finishes before starting your project.