Top Trends in Peel-and-Stick Wall Coverings for 2024
Both nickel gap and shiplap create that horizontal plank wall look — but they're built differently, installed differently, and look distinctly different once they're up.
The short version: shiplap uses overlapping boards with a rabbet joint, giving you flexibility in gap width and a rustic, farmhouse feel. Nickel gap uses tongue-and-groove boards with built-in spacers (~nickel-width apart), creating a cleaner, more uniform look that's easier to install consistently.
If you're choosing between the two — or considering a third option that skips nailing entirely — here's everything you need to know.
| Feature | Shiplap | Nickel Gap | Stikwood Peel-and-Stick |
|---|---|---|---|
| Joint type | Rabbet (overlapping) | Tongue-and-groove | Peel-and-stick adhesive |
| Gap spacing | Variable — you choose | Consistent — built-in spacer | Custom — no gap or minimal |
| Nail holes | Visible (needs filling) | Hidden | None |
| Aesthetic | Rustic, farmhouse | Modern, clean | Rustic to contemporary |
| DIY difficulty | Intermediate | Beginner–Intermediate | Beginner |
| Tools needed | Nail gun, miter saw, level | Nail gun, miter saw, level | None |
| Material cost | $2–$7/sq ft | $3–$8/sq ft | $10–$15/sq ft |
| Installed cost (incl. labor) | $8–$20/sq ft | $8–$20/sq ft | $10–$15/sq ft (no labor) |
| Real wood | Yes (or MDF) | Yes (or MDF) | Yes — reclaimed |
Shiplap boards have a rabbet joint — a stepped cut along each edge that allows boards to overlap when installed. When you nail one board above the next, the rabbet joint interlocks, creating the characteristic horizontal shadow gap that defines the shiplap look.
Nickel gap is a tongue-and-groove board with built-in spacers along the edges. When boards are installed side by side, the spacers automatically create a gap roughly the width of a nickel — about 1/16 to 1/8 inch — with no measuring or spacing tools required.
This is the biggest practical difference. Shiplap's variable gap creates a more handcrafted, organic appearance — contributing to the rustic charm. Nickel gap's uniform spacing looks engineered and precise, lending itself to contemporary, coastal, or transitional styles.
Both require similar tools: a miter saw, nail gun, level, and stud finder. The difference is in consistency. Shiplap requires manual spacing with a tool or coin — one slip and a board can shift. Nickel gap's built-in spacers eliminate this variable, making it more forgiving for first-time installers.
Shiplap requires face-nailing: nails go through the front of the board, leaving visible holes that need to be filled and sanded before painting. Nickel gap hides nails in the tongue — no hole-filling required, saving an hour or two of finishing work.
Nickel gap typically costs 10–20% more than comparable shiplap boards due to more complex milling. Installed cost is roughly equivalent for both:
| Option | Material (per sq ft) | Labor + Finishing | Total Installed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pine shiplap | $2–$4 | $6–$16 | $8–$20 |
| Nickel gap (pine) | $3–$5 | $5–$15 | $8–$20 |
| Nickel gap (cedar/hardwood) | $5–$8 | $5–$15 | $10–$23 |
| Space | Better Choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Farmhouse living room | Shiplap | Variable gap enhances rustic character |
| Modern bedroom accent wall | Nickel gap | Clean lines suit contemporary spaces |
| Bathroom or laundry room | Nickel gap (moisture-resistant MDF) | Hidden nails + consistent look |
| Ceiling installation | Nickel gap | Easier to keep consistent gaps when working overhead |
| Kids' room or nursery | Either | Both work well; paint-ready finish is key |
| Home office feature wall | Nickel gap or peel-and-stick | Professional look; peel-and-stick if renting |
Both shiplap and nickel gap require the same basic installation process: find studs, cut boards to length, nail, fill, prime, paint. That's a weekend project at minimum — and usually a contractor if you want it done perfectly.
Stikwood's peel-and-stick wood planks give you the horizontal plank wall look in real reclaimed wood — without nails, nail holes, a nail gun, or a contractor. The planks arrive pre-finished and adhere directly to drywall, painted surfaces, or MDF.
"We used this as an accent wall in our bedroom. It added so much character and is absolutely beautiful! It was so easy to install — we are looking to do another wall!"— Verified Stikwood customer ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Ready to see how it looks in your space? Order sample planks before committing to a full order.
| Step | Shiplap | Nickel Gap | Stikwood Peel-and-Stick |
|---|---|---|---|
| Find studs | Required | Required | Not required |
| Cut boards | Miter saw | Miter saw | Utility knife or shears |
| Fastening | Nail gun (face nail) | Nail gun (blind nail) | Peel adhesive backing |
| Spacing | Manual (coin/spacer) | Automatic (built-in) | N/A |
| Fill nail holes | Yes | No | No |
| Prime + paint | Required | Required (if painting) | Not required (pre-finished) |
| Time for accent wall | 1–3 days | 1–2 days | 4–6 hours |
| Reversible | No | No | Yes (with care) |
No — they're related but different. Both create a horizontal plank wall look, but shiplap uses a rabbet (overlapping) joint with variable gap spacing, while nickel gap uses a tongue-and-groove joint with a fixed ~nickel-width gap between boards. "Nickel gap shiplap" is a common search term that blends the two, but they're distinct profiles.
Nickel gap is generally easier to install consistently because the built-in spacers eliminate manual gap spacing. Shiplap requires careful spacing with a coin or tool to keep gaps even — one mis-set board can create a visible alignment issue that's hard to fix. Both require similar tools: nail gun, miter saw, and level.
Nickel gap. The consistent spacing and hidden nails give it a cleaner, more precise appearance suited to contemporary, coastal, and transitional styles. Shiplap's variable spacing and visible texture read as more rustic and farmhouse-inspired.
Yes — both work on ceilings. Nickel gap is often preferred for ceilings because the built-in spacers make it easier to maintain consistent gaps while working overhead. Additional adhesive is recommended for any wood ceiling installation, regardless of how it's fastened.
Nickel gap boards are most commonly made from pine, cedar, or MDF (medium-density fiberboard). Pine and cedar are natural wood options; MDF versions are more affordable and hold paint better, but are not real wood and can swell in humid conditions.
Nickel gap with moisture-resistant MDF is the better choice for bathrooms or high-humidity spaces. Standard wood shiplap or nickel gap can warp or swell with repeated humidity exposure. If you want natural wood in a bathroom, ensure proper ventilation and seal all edges thoroughly.
Nickel gap IS a type of tongue-and-groove paneling. The distinction is the spacing: traditional tongue-and-groove panels fit tightly with no gap, while nickel gap boards are designed with built-in spacers to leave a small, consistent gap between planks.
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